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Ellen Hodakova Larsson presented a Spring 2027 collection shaped by observations of heat-stressed oceans and a focus on older making practices. WWD reported that she turned deadstock textiles and existing objects into dresses, skirts and gowns, while moving toward a more conventional wardrobe.

Designer Ellen Hodakova Larsson presented a Spring 2027 collection built from existing materials and older making practices, pairing its sustainability focus with a more conventional wardrobe. WWD reported that the Swedish label’s designs included deadstock viscose treated with beeswax, antique linens and repurposed household objects, alongside dresses, blazers and shirts.

WWD’s runway review said Larsson’s collection drew on what she saw at sea during a summer of oppressive heat, with little rain or wind. The report described a poem about climate anxiety printed on folded paper boats placed on seats at the show. The collection turned toward older habits and techniques as a response to those observations, though the review did not frame the clothes as a direct solution to environmental damage.

Materials were central to the presentation. According to WWD, beeswax from a Stockholm beekeeper made deadstock viscose translucent and papery. Larsson also mentioned pine tar, which the report described as having been used to make boats watertight before plastic and metal. Antique linens became nightgowns and sailor dresses, while old washing-machine covers were made into dresses and a skirt set with loose volumes.

The silhouettes included shift dresses, lingerie-style slips with scalloped edges, slim blazers and shirts. Hodakova’s signature upside-down trousers were reworked as V-neck shift dresses, and cotton nets, both hand-knotted and industrial, appeared as gowns. WWD characterized the collection as less conceptual than some of Larsson’s earlier work, with a sleek wardrobe and a 1990s influence.

At a glance
reportWhen: Spring 2027 collection, reported during…
The developmentHodakova presented a Spring 2027 collection combining reclaimed materials and traditional surface treatments with a sleeker, more conventional range of clothes.

Reclaimed Materials Meet Everyday Dressing

The collection brings Hodakova’s use of existing materials into a range of recognizable clothing, including dresses, shirts and blazers. That shift may make the label’s reuse-led approach more legible to shoppers who want to understand how unconventional materials translate into garments. WWD described the lineup as both sensual and salable; that is the review’s assessment, not evidence of customer demand or commercial performance.

The report also connects the collection’s materials to traditional practices such as using pine tar in boatmaking. That provides a specific link between the designer’s observations of the sea and the clothing’s construction. The wider environmental effect of these choices, including how much material was reused or what impact the treatments have, was not quantified in the source.

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Hodakova’s Ongoing Reuse Approach

WWD described Larsson as building her work around materials that already exist. For Spring 2027, she extended that approach through surface treatments using natural materials and the repurposing of objects not ordinarily presented as fashion textiles. The collection retained the label’s sustainability message and visual play, including trompe-l’oeil eyes that the review said suggested that viewers could not look away.

The reported runway presentation paired that established interest in reuse with a more restrained set of silhouettes. The change described by WWD was a pullback from the more conceptual side of Larsson’s work in favor of what it called a sleek, conventional wardrobe. The source does not provide a full production breakdown or details about how each reclaimed item was sourced.

““conventional wardrobe””

— Ellen Hodakova Larsson, as quoted in WWD’s report

Material Sourcing Details Remain Limited

The report does not quantify how much of the collection used reclaimed or deadstock materials, identify the full sourcing of the washing-machine covers and other objects, or provide details about garment production. It also gives no data on the environmental effects of the beeswax and pine-tar treatments. WWD’s view that the collection could be commercially appealing is an editorial judgment; sales, buyer response and customer reception were not reported.

Reception and Sales Are Unreported

The available report documents the Spring 2027 runway presentation but does not state when the pieces will reach stores or provide pricing, order information or later sales results. Further reporting or information from the label would be needed to establish how the collection will be produced and received. For now, the confirmed development is the presentation itself and the reported materials and silhouettes.

Key Questions

What was the main development in Hodakova’s Spring 2027 collection?

Designer Ellen Hodakova Larsson presented a collection using existing materials and older making practices in a more conventional wardrobe of dresses, shirts, blazers and gowns.

What materials did the collection use?

WWD reported the use of deadstock viscose treated with beeswax, antique linens, old washing-machine covers, and hand-knotted and industrial cotton nets. Larsson also mentioned pine tar as a traditional boatmaking material.

What inspired the collection?

According to WWD, Larsson’s observations of the ocean during a summer of oppressive heat informed the collection. A climate-anxiety poem was printed on paper boats placed on show seats.

Did the report give sales or environmental-impact figures?

No. The WWD report did not provide sales results, production figures, a measure of the collection’s environmental impact or a breakdown of how much material was reclaimed.

Source: rss

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