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Hypebae’s early Paris Fashion Week SS27 report highlights four shows: Matières Fécales at Place de la République, Glenn Martens’s return to Maison Margiela, Anthony Vaccarello’s final Saint Laurent collection and Anrealage’s color-shifting anniversary designs. The week is still underway, with 67 shows and 34 presentations on the schedule.
Hypebae has named four early standouts from Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027: Matières Fécales, Maison Margiela, Saint Laurent and Anrealage. The report captures a week with major creative changes, including Anthony Vaccarello’s final Saint Laurent show, as the Paris schedule continues.
Matières Fécales staged what the report describes as the first runway show at Place de la République. Designers Steven Raj Bhaskaran and Hannah Rose presented “Ninety Nine Percent” as a tribute to immigrants and people pushed to the margins. According to the report, the runway featured 99 models of color, including people close to the designers. The collection paired white tailoring and a heeled flip-flop made with Christian Louboutin with military-inspired, punk-edged looks.
At Maison Margiela, Glenn Martens turned to everyday rituals at home and the house’s deconstructed design language. A crushed silver teapot featured in an advance clip; flattened silver then appeared on a white dress. Other looks included glossy floral skirts and dresses with a retro feel, as well as garments that opened to show neutral layers beneath. Anrealage marked its 25th Paris show with “SKIN,” using LED effects and electronic-paper scales that shifted in color before fading to gray.
Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent farewell centered on gold across the collection, including lamé, brocade, lace and latex brushed with gold leaf. Singer Charlotte Gainsbourg performed during the final walk, repeating the line “You are so much Yves Saint Laurent,” according to Hypebae. The show took place beneath the Eiffel Tower. The report also notes that Rosé, Zoë Kravitz and Hailey Bieber attended.
Four Shows Mark a Changing Week
The selected shows bring together distinct developments in the Paris schedule: a designer departure, a returning creative director, a technology-led anniversary collection and a runway staged at a major public square. For readers following the season, they offer an early view of the ideas and changes shaping SS27, while the schedule is still in progress.
The scale of the week also matters. Paris has 67 shows and 34 presentations on its schedule, giving established houses and emerging brands space to present work. Hypebae’s list is an editorial selection from that broader program, rather than a complete ranking or account of every show.
Debuts and Returns on the Schedule
Paris is the final stop in the Spring/Summer 2027 fashion circuit, according to the report. The season includes two creative debuts: Drew Henry at Courrèges and Kai Nesselrath at Carven. Sacai, Ester Manas and Christopher Esber are also back on the schedule.
Valentino has returned to Paris after presenting its Fall/Winter 2026 collection in Rome. Maison Margiela’s appearance carries a separate change in focus: Martens had just finished his final Milan show for Diesel and is now concentrating on the Margiela house, Hypebae reports. At Saint Laurent, the SS27 show closes Vaccarello’s decade as creative lead.
“A tribute to immigrants and those pushed to the margins.”
— Hypebae, describing Matières Fécales’ SS27 show
The Week Is Still Unfolding
This is an early selection from an ongoing fashion week. The report does not establish how the four shows compare with the rest of the schedule, nor does it provide a complete account of every collection or presentation. It also gives no further detail about how the Place de la République show was arranged or the technical operation of Anrealage’s electronic-paper garments.
More Paris Shows Ahead
Paris Fashion Week continues with the remaining shows and presentations on its 67-show, 34-presentation schedule. Further reporting can clarify how the debuts at Courrèges and Carven develop, what other houses present, and which collections become the week’s lasting talking points.
Key Questions
Which shows did Hypebae highlight?
The report highlights Matières Fécales, Maison Margiela, Saint Laurent and Anrealage as early standouts from Paris Fashion Week SS27.
What made Matières Fécales’ show notable?
Hypebae describes it as the first runway show at Place de la République. The designers presented “Ninety Nine Percent” as a tribute to immigrants and people pushed to the margins.
Was the Saint Laurent show Anthony Vaccarello’s last?
Yes. The source identifies the SS27 presentation as Vaccarello’s final show after a decade as the house’s creative lead.
What technology did Anrealage use?
Anrealage’s “SKIN” collection included LED digital effects and electronic-paper scales that shifted in color and later faded to gray, according to Hypebae.
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