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Haider Ackermann presented his Tom Ford Spring 2027 collection with racy swimwear for the first time at the house, alongside sharp tailoring, knitwear, leather and silk. He described the collection as playful and free, with more nudity than in his previous work for the brand; how the looks will translate to customers is not yet known.
Haider Ackermann sent racy swimwear down the runway for the first time in his Tom Ford collections, pairing it with the house’s sharp tailoring, cashmere knits, leather and silk for Spring 2027. The designer described the collection as a study in freedom, daring and ease, marking a more revealing and playful direction within his work for the label.
The show placed barely-there swimsuits beside tailored suits and jackets in baby blue, black, olive and white. Some suits were worn with nothing underneath; others were styled with plunging swimsuits, bras or shirts left open. WWD’s runway report described a male model wearing a crewneck sweater and pale pink thong, with a vicuña coat carried over a leather weekend bag, and a female model in a black cutout swimsuit, deep-V sweater and heels.
Eveningwear included silk dresses in deep reds associated with Tom Ford lipstick, styled off the shoulders to reveal matching leather or padded satin bra tops. Other dresses used high collars and geometric cutouts. Red flowers appeared on jacket lapels, while a red silk robe with a TF monogram and silk or leather bathrobe trenchcoats offered a nod to Hugh Hefner’s luxury pajamas. The collection also featured logo T-shirts, leather jackets with perforated lettering, high heels and weekend bags in leather, crocodile and linen.
Ackermann told WWD he wanted the collection to feel “playful” and “perhaps a touch more dangerous,” adding that he was searching for eccentricity, decadence and freedom. He said the collection included more nudity than he had shown before, but described it as “not provocative” and connected it to feeling free and taking a risk. WWD characterized the collection’s audacity as reminiscent of 1990s Tom Ford.
A More Revealing Tom Ford Direction
The collection makes swimwear and exposure a visible part of Ackermann’s Tom Ford vocabulary, placing them beside the house’s established codes of tailoring, leather and evening glamour. That shift matters because the runway presentation links a more relaxed, less covered styling approach to the label’s polished luxury image, rather than treating swimwear as a separate category.
Ackermann’s comments also suggest this direction is intended to continue. He told WWD he wants to keep the conversation going, bring more joy and take more risks. The runway provides evidence of the design approach, while commercial reception and how customers will wear the pieces remain unknown.
Ackermann Builds on Tom Ford Codes
The Spring 2027 collection is Ackermann’s latest work for Tom Ford. In the report, WWD describes his signature sharp tailoring as a foundation, now mixed with cashmere, leather, silk and swimwear. The show’s combination of covered and exposed looks gave the collection a range of styling, from suits worn without an underlayer to high-collared dresses with cutouts.
WWD connected the barely-there swimsuits to images by photographer Helmut Newton from the 1990s and described the collection’s audacity as evoking the decade’s Tom Ford. Those are the publication’s comparisons; the factual details reported from the show include the garments, colors and styling. Ackermann said he feels more comfortable at the brand and is drawn to its looser silhouettes and swimwear.
““The collection was about freedom, and daring, but also ease.””
— Haider Ackermann, speaking to WWD
Runway Reception Still Unknown
The source report describes the runway presentation and Ackermann’s stated intentions, but it does not give retail prices, delivery dates, sales plans or customer response. It is not yet clear which runway looks will reach stores, whether the swimwear will be offered in the same styling shown, or how buyers will respond to the collection’s more revealing pieces.
WWD speculated about settings such as yachts and private pool parties for the swimsuits. That is the publication’s assessment of where the looks might fit; the report does not establish how or where customers will wear them.
Ackermann Plans Further Risks
Ackermann told WWD that he wants to continue exploring freedom, joy and risk at Tom Ford. The Spring 2027 show sets out that intention, but the source material does not identify a next collection milestone or provide a schedule for when these garments may be available to shoppers.
The next evidence of how this direction develops will come from future Tom Ford collections and any retail details released for Spring 2027. For now, the confirmed development is the runway presentation and the designer’s stated interest in continuing the conversation.
Key Questions
What was the main development in Tom Ford Spring 2027?
Haider Ackermann showed racy swimwear for the first time in his Tom Ford collections, styling it with tailoring, knitwear, leather and silk.
What did Ackermann say the collection was about?
He described it as a collection about freedom, daring and ease, and said he wanted it to feel playful and take more risks.
What other pieces appeared in the collection?
The runway included sharply tailored suits, cashmere knits, leather jackets, red silk evening dresses, monogrammed robes, trenchcoats, heels and weekend bags.
When will the Spring 2027 pieces be available?
The source report does not provide retail availability dates or pricing, so timing for shoppers is not yet clear.
Source: rss
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